Helpful things to know.
Below you will find some handy information we think would be helpful for you and your pupper. Click on the subject that you would like more information on and it will direct you to the appropriate section.
How to perform CPR on a dog.
Lay the dog on the dog’s right side on a flat surface.
Place one hand on top of the other over the widest portion of the rib cage, not over the heart.
Keeping your arms straight, push down on the rib cage with firm, quick compressions at about 100 compressions per minute. Compress the chest ¼ of its width.
If alone, breathe into the nose every 5 compressions.
If there are two people, breathe into the nose every 2-3 compressions. Cover the entire muzzle with your hands so air does not leak out of the side of the nose.
Continue until the dog begins breathing on his own.
See the video here for a demonstration.
What to expect when your dog goes home.
If you haven’t boarded your dog before or it’s been a while, you probably don’t realize that he/she may seem a little different for a few days after coming home. This is often completely normal and just a reaction to their readjusting to her surroundings.
However, it definitely helps to be prepared and to know when to worry and when to just give them time and space to settle home. Here is what you need to know and what to expect when you take your dog home after boarding.
Because we aren’t a traditional boarding facility and we require dogs to come for daycare, this helps keep dogs’ stress levels down. However, anytime there is a change in environments, routines, diets, and any other pattern your dog experiences in their life, these changes can cause them stress. Every dog reacts to and handles stress differently. After picking up your dog from boarding you may see one or all these changes. Most stress-related changes will go away in a day or two. If the stress-related change persists or is an extreme shift from your dog’s standard for more than three days, talk to your veterinarian.
Drinking Excessively
You bring your pup home, and he/she won’t stop drinking. Your first question is, “When was the last time they drank, and did my dog have access to water?” Yes, they absolutely have access to water. Our staff most likely monitors water more closely than you do at home, refilling water bowls and buckets regularly throughout the day. Dogs drink more when they get home for multiple reasons. They may feel more comfortable there, they may be overly excited, the car ride home stressed them out or they’re simply thirsty. Make sure they have access to some water but don’t let them drink bowls and bowls of it right away, it will make them sick. Let them drink a reasonable portion, then allow them to settle and regain their regular drinking habits.
Change in Diet
One of the most common things that we hear from owners once their dog first returns home after boarding is that they are eating much more than normal. If your pup seems ravenous for the first few days after coming home, don’t worry. It doesn’t mean that there is anything wrong, nor does it mean that they didn’t eat while here.
Dogs tend to work up a significant appetite when they are boarding, and this is because they spend a lot of time exercising and playing. They need extra calories to refuel their bodies. However, since dogs naturally seem to eat less when boarding, often just due to being less comfortable eating in unfamiliar surroundings, it is very common for canines to play catch-up when they arrive home. If your dog’s appetite doesn’t settle down in a few days, speak to your veterinarian
Change in Personality
Your dog may ignore you or become extra clingy when you get home. Both are normal. Some dogs take it as a personal offense that you went on an adventure without them for a weekend. After the initial excitement of seeing you wears away, they may give you the silent treatment for a day or two. Other dogs can be the opposite. They may be so grateful you returned they get clingy for a day or two. Both responses are normal. Also, your dog may seem sad or depressed by being away from their friends and play activities. After a few days of rest, feel free to bring your pup back for more socialization and activity. They generally perk right back up!
Change in Stool or Vomiting
Have you ever had an upset tummy because of fear, anxiety, or excitement? A similar phenomenon can affect our pets too, and if your dog has diarrhea when he/she first returns home, this could be due to the flood of emotions they’re feeling. It is very unlikely that they have picked up a stomach virus or anything while here as we are fastidious both in ensuring animals are suitably vaccinated and in our standards of cleanliness. Nevertheless, if your pup has diarrhea for more than 48 hours, it is important to schedule an appointment with your vet to rule out the underlying illness and to check that she isn’t becoming dehydrated. If he/she has diarrhea and isn’t drinking, see your vet immediately. Additionally, if your dog is vomiting it could be for the same reason, or he drank too much water or ate too fast. Fast your dog for 12 hours and if it persists for more than two days contact your veterinarian. If there is blood also contact your veterinarian, these could be signs of a different issue.
Change in Sleep
Your dog will most likely come home and sleep very soundly for about two days. Unlike when they are home, the dogs get tons of playtime while here and were romping around for hours more than usual; paired with a new place, new smells, and new friends; they are rightfully tired. Even if your dog isn’t active, just being awake and alert to everything going on is tiring. It’s similar to when you go on vacation and walk a few extra miles a day that you aren’t used to. The saying, “I need a vacation from my vacation,” comes to mind.
Feeding your dog the right amount of food.
The number of calories your dog should be fed to maintain her ideal weight (not her current weight) is called her “resting energy requirement” (RER).
To determine your dog’s RER:
Convert her ideal weight in pounds to kilograms by dividing by 2.2
Multiply that number by 30
Add 70
Example:
The ideal weight is 60 lbs ÷ 2.2 = 27.27 kilograms
27.27 x 30 = 818
818 +70 = 888 calories per day (RER)
Check the number of calories in the food your dog is eating and divide the number of calories your dog should be getting by the number of calories in each cup of food.
Example:
380 calories per cup as listed on the food bag label
888 calories per day ÷ 380 calories per cup
2.3 cups of food per day
Adjust the feeding amount down if your dog is overweight and adjust it up if your dog is too thin.
Don’t forget, this is your dog’s basic diet and does not account for treats and other calories she may consume during the day. Be sure to adjust accordingly.
What are puppy warts?
Dogs that lead social lives are exposed to various viruses, bacteria, and parasites more frequently than their counterparts that lounge at home in solitude. This includes going to the dog parks, dog daycare, boarding facilities, puppy socials, training classes, even the aisles at the local pet store. Just because your dog lounges at home does not mean he is safe from all illness, only that he has a lower probability of exposure.
What are puppy warts?
Puppy warts (Canine Papilloma Virus) are typically benign. They can be compared to chicken pox in humans. Generally, once the dog is exposed to the virus and presents with warts, the dog does not get them again. Don’t worry, you can’t catch puppy warts from your dog! Commonly the virus is found in dogs less than two years of age because they have a less effective immune system, but older dogs and dogs that have not been exposed to the virus can still catch it. It is commonly thought that the dogs must touch noses or “swap spit” to transfer the virus so dogs in a social environment are at a higher risk.
What do the warts look like?
The most common appearance is inside the mouth. They look like small lumps in between the lips and the gum line (sometimes on the tongue). The lumps look pale pink raspberries or little pieces of cauliflower heads. The number and size of the warts in the mouth can vary greatly.
What should I do if my dog has them?
The warts themselves are not dangerous and 99% of the time they are non-cancerous. Generally, warts disappear within six weeks. Most veterinarians will not prescribe antibiotics unless the warts have been present for more than six months and there are a great number of them in the mouth. You need to decide the best course of action by talking with your veterinarian. Occasionally veterinarians recommend surgical removal when the warts are so numerous it prevents the dog from eating.
What if my dog has warts?
Since the virus is thought to be contagious up to two weeks before an actual wart appears, it is impossible to prevent outbreaks. The virus is not a serious health risk and is considered by most a “puppy illness” and a right of passage that most pups go through before they reach adulthood (much like chicken pox).
What are ear hematomas?
Ear hematomas are very painful and can result in permanent deformation of the ear if not treated correctly.
What is an ear hematoma?
Ear hematomas are a collection of blood and fluid between the skin and cartilage of the ear. A blood vessel in the ear ruptures and the loose space under the skin will fill up with blood. The pressure from the ruptured vessel will often cause the entire surface of the ear to swell creating a very painful condition. Hematomas will occur very quickly, often within minutes of the vessel being ruptured. Affected dogs will have a noticeably swollen, fluid-filled ear that is extremely painful to the touch. If left untreated, the pain will subside somewhat after several days, but the swelling will continue, and, eventually, as the fluid-filled space generates scar tissue, the ear may become permanently disfigured.
Who is at risk for getting hematomas?
Any dog or cat of any age can develop an ear hematoma, although they are more common in dogs with ear flaps that hang down, such as Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers. Animals with chronic ear infections, ear mites, or allergies that cause the ears to itch are at the greatest risk of developing an ear hematoma. Dogs will scratch their ears or shake their head if their ears are itchy or painful, which can result in a ruptured blood vessel.
What is the treatment?
There are several different treatment options for ear hematomas. The treatment will depend on how quickly the hematoma is identified and treated (the sooner the better), the size of the hematoma, and the personal preferences of you and your veterinarian.
The most widely used treatment consists of a surgical procedure that involves incising the skin on the underside of the ear, draining the blood, and then suturing through the ear with multiple stitches. The ear may or may not be bandaged and then the underlying infection, mites, or allergies are diagnosed and treated. The benefit of this procedure is that there is a good chance that the ear will look normal when healed and a low chance of the hematoma reoccurring.
Another treatment option includes surgically opening and draining the ear and then NOT placing stitches but taping the ear up over a rolled bandage and allowing the ear to heal. This procedure may be more favorable in dogs where it is very important that the ear not be disfigured. This procedure requires more intensive aftercare.
In cases where the hematoma is very small or old, some veterinarians will remove the fluid with a syringe and if there is no clot present, will allow the ear to heal without surgery. Some veterinarians will also surgically place a cannula or drain to allow blood and fluid to be released and will avoid surgery and suture placement.
Prevention
Prevention primarily consists of preventing any trauma to your dog’s ears. Self-trauma from scratching or head shaking is still the most common cause of ear hematomas. Prompt treatment of all infections and ear mites, as well as the proper diagnosis and treatment of allergies, is the best way to prevent hematomas. At the first sign of your dog shaking her head or scratching at her ears, be sure to have her examined by your veterinarian so the problem can be diagnosed and treated properly.
Is chocolate bad for my dog?
The chemicals in chocolate that are toxic to dogs are caffeine and theobromine with theobromine being far more problematic.
Symptoms of chocolate poisoning.
Symptoms are vomiting, diarrhea, increased thirst, panting or restlessness, excessive urination, and racing heart rate. In severe cases, symptoms can include muscle tremors, seizures, and heart failure.
The toxic dose of theobromine for dogs starts at 9 milligrams (mg) per pound of the dog’s body weight. This is enough to cause mild signs of toxicity. At 18 mg of theobromine per pound of dog’s body weight, severe toxicity occurs.
Dark chocolate contains far more theobromine than milk chocolate. The darker the chocolate, the greater the theobromine content. Baker’s chocolate is the most toxic to dogs. It contains up to 450 mg of theobromine per ounce of chocolate.
An 85% dark chocolate contains about 230 mg of theobromine per ounce. Milk chocolate contains no more than 60 mg per ounce, and chocolate baked goods are significantly lower still.
Using a 30 pound dog as an example, to determine the dose that would cause mild toxicity, multiply 30 pounds by 9 mg, it would take about 270 mg of theobromine to see the onset of mild toxicity. For the amount of theobromine that would cause severe toxicity, multiply the dog’s weight (30 pounds) by 18 mg. An intake of 540 mg of theobromine would be highly toxic.
Looking at some chocolates, a standard milk chocolate candy bar weighs 1.55 ounces. Multipy 1.55 ounces by the amount of theobromine found in milk chocolate … 60 mg. That candy bar contains 93 mg of theobromine; nowhere close to the 270 mg of theobromine that would cause mild symptoms!
If that same 1.55 ounce candy bar was made of dark chocolate, your dog would have consumed about 357 mg of theobromine, which IS in the dangerous range. The same amount of baker’s chocolate is the worst-case scenario, containing just under 700 mg of toxic theobromine.
If you see your dog eat chocolate you can almost always prevent serious problems by inducing your dog to vomit IF you discover the consumption quickly enough. If you catch your dog eating the chocolate, or are fairly certain she JUST ate it, calculate whether she consumed enough theobromine to justify making her vomit. If the dose is close to or exceeds 9 mg of theobromine per pound of your dog’s body weight, get a bottle of 3% hydrogen peroxide which works as a direct irritant to the gastric lining. Dogs usually vomit fairly quickly after administration.
How to induce vomiting.
The dose is small. 1 teaspoon per 5 pounds of the dog’s body weight, with a maximum of 3 Tablespoons. There are 3 teaspoons per Tablespoon, so the maximum dose for dogs who weigh more than 45 pounds is 3 Tablespoons.
If the peroxide works, your dog should vomit within 2 to 5 minutes of receiving the first dose. If your dog vomits an amount that appears to be comparable to the missing chocolate, she’s almost certainly going to be fine.
If she doesn’t vomit within 5 minutes, it’s okay to re-dose, then stop. Do not administer more than the suggested dose and call your veterinarian or emergency clinic.
It can take days to recover from theobromine toxicity, but with early intervention and veterinary care when needed, dogs usually recover uneventfully.
*As published in the “Whole Dog Journal”, October 2022
How to de-skunk your dog.
The Humane Society says skunks warn before spraying by stomping their front feet, raising the tail, hissing, making short forward charges, and twisting their hind end around in your direction. Apparently, most dogs do not know this!
You can purchase commercial premade de-skunk shampoos but always read the directions closely beforehand. Some products may need to be diluted before use while others may work best when applied to a dry coat. Do not mix multiple products together unless they are intended to be used that way. Such solutions can react in unexpected and sometimes harmful ways.
A popular and effective de-skunk home recipe:
1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide
¼ cup of baking soda
1 teaspoon of liquid dishwashing soap (Dawn)
To use the mixture:
Dab any oil from the skunk’s spray that is on your dog’s coat. Paper towels work well to absorb and remove it.
Mix the hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and dish soap. It will fizz!
Use rubber gloves to apply the mix to your dog as soon as possible. Do not get it in the eyes.
Rub the mixture into your dog’s coat and leave it on for approximately five minutes. Leaving the mixture on too long can bleach the hair.
Rinse thoroughly.
Make a fresh batch each time your dog gets skunked. Don’t try to keep it premixed as it creates a reaction that can rapidly expand and explode into a huge mess!
Depending on how close your dog was to the skunk, it may take multiple rounds of treatment to completely clear the odor. Some dogs may continue to have a slight skunk smell when wet for a week or so afterward, even if they do not have a detectable odor when dry. Don’t worry, it will improve over time!
Heat exhaustion in dogs and how to treat it.
Dog fur is great protection against the cold but can be a problem in hot weather. This is because, unlike humans, dogs eliminate heat by panting. (Dogs have some sweat glands in the footpads which help with heat dissipation, but only minimally.) When panting isn’t enough, their body temperature rises. This can be fatal if not corrected quickly.
What to watch for.
Excessive panting and signs of discomfort indicate overheating. However, it is important to be aware of the ambient temperature and take appropriate preventative measures.
Primary cause.
Any hot environment can cause heatstroke, but the most common cause is careless actions such as leaving a dog in a car on a hot day or forgetting to provide shade to an animal kept outdoors.
Immediate care.
It is essential to remove the dog from the hot environment immediately. If it is unconscious, make sure no water enters the nose or mouth as you follow these guidelines. Also, do not give the dog aspirin to lower its temperature; this can lead to other problems.
Put your dog in the bathtub.
Run a cool (not cold) shower over your pet, covering the whole body -- especially the back of the head and neck.
Allow the water to fill up the bathtub as you shower the dog. Keep the head elevated to prevent aspiration pneumonia.
If getting the dog into the tub is impractical, use a garden hose to cool the dog or place him in a pool of cool water.
Apply a cold pack to the dog’s head to help lower his body temperature -- a packet of frozen vegetables works fine.
Massage the legs. A vigorous rubbing helps the dog’s circulation and reduces the risks of shock.
Let the dog drink as much cool or cold water as it wants. Adding a pinch of salt to the water bowl will help the dog replace the minerals it lost through panting.
The following steps should be taken, regardless of whether the dog is conscious, appears to recover well, or was only mildly affected:
Check for signs of shock.
Take the dog’s temperature every five minutes, continuing water-cooling until it drops below 103°F (39.4°C) .
If the dog’s temperature drops a little more – to around 100°F (37.8°C) – don’t worry. A slightly low temperature is a lot less dangerous.
Treat for shock if necessary.
Get immediate veterinary attention. Heatstroke can cause unseen problems, such as swelling of the brain, kidney failure, and abnormal clotting of blood. On the way to the veterinarian, travel with the windows open and the air conditioner on.
Veterinary care.
Treatment will consist mostly of replacing lost fluids and minerals. This may extend to secondary conditions, which your vet will be able to identify. Intravenous fluid therapy and monitoring for secondary complications such as kidney failure, development of neurologic symptoms, abnormal clotting, changes in blood pressure, and electrolyte abnormalities are typically recommended in cases of heatstroke.
Other causes.
Dogs with thick fur, short noses, or those suffering from medical conditions such as laryngeal paralysis and obesity are predisposed to heatstroke. In addition, dogs that enjoy constant exercise and playtime -- such as working dogs (Labradors, Springer Spaniels, etc.) -- should be closely monitored for signs of overheating, especially on hot days.
What are anal glands?
Every dog has two anal glands (or sacs) … 1 gland on each side of the anus at approximately the 5 o’clock and 7 o’clock positions. These glands are sometimes referred to as “scent glands” because they enable the dog to mark its territory and identify each other. These glands normally release a small amount of their contents during a bowel movement, leaving an animal’s personal scent on its feces. This odor is why animals are so interested in smelling each other’s feces – it’s like checking out business cards.
The secretion from the anal glands is a brownish liquid, although it can become thick, yellowish, or creamy looking. The anal sacs can also be emptied by contraction of the anal sphincter. This involuntary contraction can be due to the dog being upset, frightened or under pressure, or the contractions can be triggered by the dog to leave its mark on the territory. Constricting the anal sphincter not only marks the territory, but it also permeates the dog with that “doggy” odor.
Anal glands can cause problems in several ways. First, if they become slightly blocked or inflamed, the discomfort can lead to the dog scooting or dragging its rear on your carpet or grass as the pet attempts to relieve the blockage. This problem can usually be relieved by manually expressing the glands. This is usually done by a veterinarian or groomer but can be done by owners at home. Use caution. Don’t manually express the glands too often. This can lead to the weakening of the anal sphincter and “leaking” of the contents in your house!!!
To express the anal glands, prepare a warm moist washcloth or towel. Raise the dog’s tail and locate the anal glands at approximately 5 o’clock and 7 o’clock positions in relation to the anal circumference. You will feel the glands as small firm nodules. Place the cloth over the area to avoid being squirted. Position your thumb on one gland and index finger on the opposite gland. By pressing in and squeezing your fingers toward each other, the glands should empty toward you from around the anus. Wipe the area clean with a cloth.
If the discharge is bloody or purulent, there is probably an anal gland infection that should be treated by your veterinarian. Left untreated, an impacted anal gland becomes very painful and can rupture through the skin leading to a painful, infected wound.
What is bloat?
Gastric Dilation-Volvulus (GDV), commonly called “bloat” (also sometimes referred to as a gastric torsion), is a life-threatening emergency. It occurs primarily in large, deep-chested breeds. GDV occurs without warning and is very difficult to treat.
What is GDV?
Gastric dilation-volvulus is an acute swelling of the stomach. The stomach fills rapidly with excessive gas, which distorts and enlarges it. The stomach is not able to rid itself of the excess gas and may twist on its axis, causing obstructions at each end of the stomach (“volvulus” refers to the twisting motion). Therefore both the esophagus and intestines may become twisted shut. A dog may appear uncomfortable, pace, or salivate at this time. Some, however, show few signs; it depends on the severity and rate at which the bloating occurs.
Causes of GDV
No one thing has been proven to cause bloat. It is normally seen in large, deep-chested breeds but may also occur in smaller breeds. Eating or drinking too much or too fast has been thought to be a contributing factor, along with excessive exercise before a meal can be digested. A study by the Purdue University School of Veterinary Medicine indicates that raising food bowls off the floor actually doubles the risk of bloat, rather than lowering the incidence at which it occurs. It does not seem to affect one sex more than the other but is more likely to occur as dog’s age. Bloat commonly occurs in dogs between the ages of 7 and 12 years.
Signs & Symptoms
Vomiting, dry heaves, salivation, and restlessness may all be signs of bloating. They may also just be signs of a stomachache. The most obvious sign is distention and swelling of the abdominal cavity as the stomach expands. Dogs will often assume an unnatural body posture, standing with the head and neck extended. A veterinary hospital will confirm the diagnosis with an abdominal x-ray. GDV causes total collapse. The dog goes into shock and ultimately can die from cardiac irregularities.
Treatment
A GDV case must be attended to rapidly if the dog is to be saved. Unfortunately, according to statistics, over 50% of GVD cases will die even with veterinary attention. Treatment for shock should be started in the early phases, and the stomach decompressed. This may be accomplished by passing a stomach tube, but sometimes surgery will be the only option to try to save the pet. Surgery does not guarantee a happy outcome, unfortunately, and some dogs will not recover even with it. After surgery, several days of hospitalized care will be necessary. A dog that lives through a bloating episode, but does not have corrective surgery, will be at high risk for another attack. Without “tacking” the stomach in place, a dog will most likely bloat again.
Since all the factors that contribute to GDV are not clear, there is no way of predicting when a bloating episode may occur. Sometimes owners will notice the signs, but not attribute them to a real problem until the pet collapses.
What is Conjunctivitis/Pink Eye?
“Pinkeye” is a descriptive term that lumps together any problem that results in inflammation of the delicate membranes lining the eyelids and part of the eyeball, called the conjunctiva. When the conjunctiva becomes inflamed, we add the suffix "-itis" to create the technical term “conjunctivitis”. The contagious form of human pinkeye that kids pass around at school is commonly caused by either a bacterial or viral infection which looks exactly the same. Doctors typically prescribe an antibiotic eye drop or ointment to cover the possibility of a bacterial infection. For viral infections, the person’s immune system will fight off the bug on its own. In either case, pinkeye commonly resolves in a few days. Frequent hand washing, laundering and not sharing towels, bedding, etc. can limit the spread.
On the other hand, conjunctivitis in dogs is rarely caused by infection, and almost never by anything contagious to people. The most common causes of canine conjunctivitis are allergies or trauma, including local irritation from dirt, dust, abnormal eyelashes, rolled eyelids, inadequate tear production, fumes, scented candles, tobacco smoke, etc.
These types of conjunctivitis may be treated with drops or ointments that contain corticosteroids that reduce the inflammation, but the most important is to minimize the ongoing exposure to whatever is causing the reaction. If the inflammation does not resolve in a few days, a trip to your veterinarian is in order.
Can a dog come to daycare too much?
In essence….yes!
Daycare for your dog has so many great benefits but too much can have adverse consequences for your dog's health and wellbeing. We are obviously huge fans of dog daycare here, but we want your dog's health to be our number one priority. We’ve all heard the saying, “A tired dog is a good dog,” but there’s a vast difference between a dog who sleeps because he’s tired and content, and a dog who sleeps because he’s exhausted from too much activity or a stress-filled day.
Below is a list of reasons why we do not allow dogs to attend daycare on a daily basis for an extended period:
Overstimulation
The classic "too much of a good thing" here means the dog never has time to take a breath and relax. The stimulation of daycare is an ongoing, exciting experience like Doggy Disneyland! It would be like being on a roller coaster for hours at a time. It might be fun at first, but after a while you just want to get off the ride.
Dogs will tell us they want to get off the daycare roller coaster in several ways. They might start aggressing and snapping at dogs they normally play nicely with. They might shut down and cower in the corner until it's time to go home, or they may begin guarding things they consider their own (like toys, water bowls and even staff members). No matter how they tell us, we do not want to see these behaviors in our guests. Daycare should be enjoyed; rewarding both physically and mentally, not overly stressful and merely tolerated. We want all our guests to be in daycare enjoying themselves!
Builds Endurance
A dog in daycare builds endurance the same way, for example, as someone builds endurance for running. The more exposure to it, the more accustomed you become to it. If you only run occasionally, you won't be able to compete in a marathon, but if you run every day, your body becomes used to that level of running. Each day it becomes less taxing on your system. The same can be said for dogs in daycare. The more often and longer the days spent in daycare, the more they grow used to that amount of stimulus. When they are no longer exposed to that level of stimulus, it’s hard for them to regulate back to a normal level. They don't nap as long at home after a day of daycare and they need additional exercise to provide the level of exertion their bodies have become accustomed to. This never-ending cycle is not good for their health or mental wellbeing.
On days your dog is off from daycare, there are other forms of exercise that will engage their brain and body but in shorter periods of time that will allow their body to relax and recuperate. Using a variety of mental and physical forms of exercise, like a “sniff-ari” excursion, treat puzzles, or dog sports will be enjoyable for your dog, enhance the bond between you and benefit them in the long run.
No Down Time
Unlike many daycares, we don’t have scheduled “nap-time” where dogs are separated from each other and required to rest. We do encourage them to rest, and they have lots of comfy places to do that, but one or two short naps are not sufficient to provide enough rest and recovery between play sessions in the long term. A full 24 hours is good. Did you know that dogs typically sleep for 12-18 hours a day? They do not sleep 12 hours straight. They take many naps throughout the day. By allowing your dog to rest on their non-daycare days, you will have a better balanced dog.
Ability to be Alone
Dogs are social creatures and want to be with their "family" as much as possible. We love that about dogs! But, there are times when your dog should be alone so their body and brain can be still, like doggy meditation, or because it’s somehow necessary for you to be away from them. It’s important for your dog to learn to be comfortable alone. You never know when it might be necessary to spend time at the vet due to an illness that needs to be monitored, for example, or you may need to be away from home for any number of reasons. Being able to spend time alone, safely, means you can trust your dog to not hurt himself if you need to leave him for any reason.
Short term, daily daycare attendance will not cause long term negative effects. If a dog needs to board for a week or two or three, or something at home has caused a short term need for daily daycare (house guests, construction, etc.), we will definitely accommodate this. However, as a general rule, for his/her overall health and wellbeing, we recommend that your pup come for daycare no more than 3 days a week.
When is it a good time to “ignore” my dog?
The idea is that when you react to an unwanted behavior, you are actually rewarding the behavior. So, ignoring behavior is particularly helpful when what the dog seeks is your attention.
Here are some situations when ignoring your dog may work.
Jumping
You come home from work and your dog excitedly greets you at the door. He gets more and more worked up and starts jumping. You firmly tell him no and push him off you, and he jumps on you again. By speaking to your dog and reacting to him, you are inadvertently rewarding him with attention—even if it’s negative. In fact, he may even perceive you pushing him off as playing. Instead, as soon as he jumps, without saying a word, turn your back to him and cross your arms. When he stops jumping, you can tell him good boy and pet him. If he jumps again, turn your back again. This may take some repetition.
Barking
There are a variety of reasons why a dog barks and whines, but when you think he’s doing it for attention, try ignoring it to stop the unwanted behavior. For example, you are sitting watching TV and he’s staring at you. He wants some playtime, but you are transfixed by what you are watching. Soon, your dog starts whining. You stop the program and tell him to stop. You resume the program, and the whine turns into a bark. You stand up, look at him and tell him to stop again. He stops and you sit back down again. Then, he starts barking. Your dog is learning that whining and barking are the only things keeping your attention away from your show and trained on him. Instead of telling him to stop, try ignoring the behavior until it stops. As soon as it stops, reward him with attention.
Mouthing
Puppies are often known for mouthing behaviors, but left unchecked, some dogs may continue to use mouthing for attention into adulthood. It can be handled in the same way as jumping. When it happens, immediately turn your back, and cross your arms, and only give attention when the dog is calm and stops the behavior.
Theft
Your dog will find all sorts of ways to get your attention, including stealing important things from you—like your purse or shoes. The last thing you want to do in this situation is run around chasing your dog and yelling at him. All you are doing is creating a fun, attention-filled game for him that will encourage him to continue this behavior. Of course, if your dog is in danger of choking or if the item is otherwise dangerous, getting the item away from your dog is the priority. But if it’s a benign item, don’t run after him. Try ignoring him and there’s a good chance he’ll drop the item when he gets no attention. Make sure to keep the item hidden from him in the future to avoid temptation.
Begging
Some dogs will simply beg for attention. They might shove their face on your lap or be pushy. If you reward the behavior by giving attention, your dog will keep doing this. Ignore him, and when he stops the behavior, give him attention.
Finding Trouble
When dogs are really looking for attention, they may engage in a series of behaviors they know will get a rise out of you. It will be things they know they are not supposed to do. If they are not in any kind of danger from the behavior or behaviors (for instance, eating something bad from the garbage), ignore the behavior and reward when the behavior stops. The key to helping prevent negative, attention-seeking behaviors from your dog is by giving him plenty of love, attention, and playtime. If he uses bad behavior to get your attention, do the best you can not to enable the behavior. Ignoring a behavior may not always work (especially when he finds another reward other than your attention), but it can serve as a trick to keep in your back pocket for when you're dealing with a challenging dog.
Quieting the Barking.
Distracting
One of the most effective ways of silencing a barking pup is through distraction. Shake your car keys, squeak a favorite toy, or rattle the treat box. Once you have gotten your dog’s attention, tell them to “sit” and offer a treat. With consistency, your dog will learn that barking does not earn a reward but sitting quietly just might!
Distraction techniques also work well in public. If your dog gets loud with strangers on walks or in public spaces, you can manage this undesirable behavior by distracting your dog. On walks, the goal is to avoid engagement. Wait for the dog to notice the stranger, and then turn and walk before the dog has a chance to engage. When the dog can approach someone calmly and quietly, reward them.
Staying
At home, excited or territorial barking can be headed off at the pass by training your dog to go sit at a particular spot. They must remain at that spot during the welcoming process. For the best odds of success, your dog should already have the foundations of obedience training and know basic commands, such as “sit,” “lie down,” and “stay.”
You can also train your dog with the command “quiet.” If your dog begins barking at a stranger, gently hold their muzzle while saying, “quiet.” Do not shout, yell, or exclaim loudly. Instead, keep your voice calm and at a normal volume. Remove your hand from the muzzle, and if your dog can refrain from barking, offer a treat. If barking continues, then repeat the process.
Keep in mind that physically restraining your dog’s muzzle can cause frustration. If your pup becomes uncooperative, you can use the quiet command without restraint combined with distraction. If your dog stays quiet, offer a treat.
Prevention
Dogs without supervision for any period, such as in the yard or at home alone, often bark at passers-by, delivery people, and others. Because you are not there to intervene, your dog’s barking will be reinforced naturally, which means that you will need to be proactive about quieting it. This includes keeping blinds and curtains closed to reduce the risk of them seeing people passing by and installing tall opaque fences that block their view beyond your yard.
Finally, remember that a tired dog is a good dog. Doggy daycare can offer your dog new outlets for their energy and doggy friends for healthy, positive socialization. Giving your dog plenty of activities, offering alternative behaviors, and developing positive new communication strategies will help your dog stay active, engaged, social, and well-mannered.